Hiking in the Lake District - Across England's Highest Peak

Slightly out of breath from the steep climb we stopped by the stream that cascaded down from Great Gable and decided to fill our water bottles with the cold refreshing water.   Since we had crossed the wooden footbridge down below, the level valley path from Wasdale Head past the tiny church of st Olaf and the sheepfolds of Burnthwaite had become a relentless stony climb. It's one I've done many times though but this was different because I was taking my eldest son Josh up England's highest peak Scafell Pike after a camp in the valley and it brought to mind the many times I had followed my own father up these same trails.

Our objective appeared from the mists across the valley in the early morning light as we watched; sporting a few remnants of winter snow above the wild and craggy confines of Sty Head. It was good to have the place to ourselves and we set off again towards the top of the pass which was not far now.

Our first view of Scafell Pike from the path to Styhead Pass

Sty Head is as much a crossroads in the hills as a pass with the path we were on linking Wasdale and Borrowdale, while a good path heads right (roughly south east) towards Langdale. Up to the left is the path to Great Gable from where steep and rough trails lead down towards Ennerdale,

Styhead Tarn occupies an idyllic place in the hills just below the pass of the same name. The fell beyond is Green Gable

Sprinkling Tarn at 2000 ft on the route has the dubious honour of being the rainiest place in England

We followed the right hand path past the idyllic Sty Head Tarn and up below the dark crags of Great End to Sprinkling Tarn at almost 2000 feet. This lonely stretch of water has the dubious honour of being the wettest place in England and though it wasn't raining at the moment the early sun appeared to be having second thoughts. After the tarn where the path forks, the right one is taken for Scafell Pike; the other being the route to Langdale. This section is particularly easy being on constructed trails up moderate gradients heading firstly in a southerly direction to Esk Hause and then curving more to the West around Great End to a high col that offers views back down to Sty Head and a sense that one is getting somewhere.

A false sense of security is given to all unfamiliar with the mountain by this easy section; Scafell Pike is still around a mile away across some of the roughest ground in the Lake District. Up to the left (roughly south west) from the col soon leads to the boulder fields; the marker cairns offer a way that avoids the worst of the boulder hopping but even though I have been here many times Istill had to look carefully for the route. The dip down to Little Narrowcove and the final steep ascent to the Pike was almost welcome after the rocks and soon we stood on the highest ground in England, 3210 feet or 978m above sea level.

Josh had almost made it - this is on the rough section with the summit beyond

At 3210ft or 978m Scafell Pike is the highest mountain in England. The peak visible on the right is Great Gable(2949ft/899m) with Pillar and Kirk Fell on the left

For the route down we followed the well marked path north-westwards towards Lingmell Col which is good for the Corridor Route back to Styhead or the so called "Brown Tongue" route which is the shortest way to Wasdale Head from the summit and a long stony descent followed, passing the turn off on the right for the Corridor. The path then curved around and down to the left onto easier grassy terrain as we had opted for Brown Tongue which algthough a little tedious in ascent offers a quick way down and meant we would have traversed the peak and come down the other side. Once on the constructed pathway which consists of many hundreds of stone steps the way is obvious - the only choices being at the bottom of the steep slope after crossing the river where the main path carries on (to the National Trust campsite) and a path heads off across the slope to the right. This goes to the Green and Wasdale Head Hotel and was our way back to the car.

From just below the summit we looked back down to Styhead Tarn that we passed earlier. Great End is on the right

Looking back up to Mickledore the ridge that separates Scafell and Scafell Pike from the region known as Hollow Stones on the route down

A welcome sight at the end of the walk though the photo was actually taken from the Green as we set off

The route as we walked it is a circular one of 12.5km or about eight miles and just over 3000ft (914m) of ascent and descent that effectively makes a traverse or crossing of Scafell Pike. The terrain is excessively rough and stony for most of the way and will seem further than 8 miles but it's worth the effort on a day with a view and is within the capabilities of most reasonably fit people. Wasdale Head has a couple of campites and B&b's as well as the hotel which is a welcome sight after the walk. Allow a good 5-6 hrs with stops.

Pete Buckley April 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Grasmere, Easedale and Tarn Crag

The secluded valley of Easedale just a stone's throw from bustling Grasmere is a popular destination for tourists who walk up into the hills from the village to Easedale Tarn; yet until very recently it was the only valley of any size in the Lake District that I'd never visited.

So taking advantage of a weather window - well it had stopped raining - I set out from Grasmere's Butharlyp How Youth Hostel to go take a look at Easedale Tarn and ascend Tarn Crag which is an interesting looking sub-2000 Wainwright that rises directly above it.

Leaving Gramere the path heads through the lower part of Easedale with Tarn crag seen ahead

The path from Grasmere lies firstly along a lane conveniently named Easedale Road that heads past the Youth hostel and on towards the base of Helm Crag (aka the Lion and the Lamb). The path is signed off to the left through a gate and over the beck after perhaps half a mile where the route to Helm Crag carries straight on. Just a short way through some woods and the view ahead is of the Central Fells at the head of Easedale.

At a stone bridge on the right there is the choice of crossing the beck though I kept straight on - both trails lead to Easedale Tarn and fording the river is easy at the outflow of the tarn.

The path makes a steady ascent from the flat valley floor, following the beck which is called Sour Milk Gill,  past an impressive waterfall and on up to Easedale Tarn. The tarn lies in a rugged hollow in the fells that contrasts finely with the pastoral nature of the lower part of the valley.

The wild looking surroundings of Easedale Tarn contrasts with the valley below

 This is a worthwhile destination for a short and easy day out but I crossed the outflow  at some stepping stones and journeyed a little way around its right hand side picking up a faint path heading up the steep slopes above the water. The path became clearer higher up and as the gradient eased; emerged on the wide grassy ridge above. I now headed up to the left with the peak of Tarn Crag rising ahead.

A faint path leads up the wide grassy ridge towards Tarn Crag whose summit is the obvious peak straight ahead. The route is easier and shorter than it looks in the picture!

Tarn Crag; despite its modest altitude is of an imposing appearance but the easy path heads up between its two peaks - the highest being the pointed one on the right - and doubles back to gain the cairn which is perched on a fine eyrie overlooking Easedale and the Grasmere valley. Here the wind blew harder and the mist had now come in so I ventured back below the crest to eat my lunch on a comfortable rock just below the ridge separating the two summits.

Looking towards Fairfield and Helvellyn from my lunch place just below the top of Tarn Crag.

In clearer weather the views would impress from here but today everything above about 1800 ft was obscured though Easedale Tarn and the Grasmere valley made a pleasant backdrop to my downhill walk before the rain once more made its return. At least it had the decency to wait until I was back at Grasmere.

The lonely situation of Easedale Tarn is clear from the walk back down Tarn Crag

I liked this spot so finished my lunch here - it was a short way around the tarn looking towards the outflow where the paths emerge

The walk in total is 6 miles return (four if you only go as far as the tarn) and reaches a maximum height of 1801 feet. The tarn lies at just under 1000 feet. Grasmere has a profusion of hotels, guest houses and B&B's though I stayed at the youth hostel which is a five minute walk from the village.

Pete Buckley March 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Buttermere and Haystacks

Despite a modest altitude of 597m or 1962 feet; Haystacks; which rises above Buttermere, is probably one of the most popular ascents in all the Lake District. The fell's popularity is well deserved and stems from its rugged nature and easy access from Buttermere as well as the fact that it was among the favorites of Wainwright; whose guidebooks to the Lakes are still - and probably always will be - without compare. The summit with its little tarns and rugged outcrops was in fact the author's final resting place.

Haystacks on the left seen from the Buttermere lakeside path

I wondered then on a recent trip to Buttermere, why I had never climbed Haystacks and so set out to remedy the situation. A lakeside path circuits Buttermere so from the village either shore can be taken with the northern side being my choice today. A short section of road led to Gatesgarth Farm (where you can park for a reasonable £3 at the time of writing) but this would miss out the beautiful shoreline views and Haystacks is not a long walk anyway.

From Gatesgarth a wide track crosses fields and circuits the southern side of the lake but my track branched steeply uphill and off to the left climbing steadily towards Scarth Gap; the pass to neighboring Ennerdale.

Looking across the steep slopes of Haystacks from the Scarth Gap path

Climbing high above the head of the Buttermere Valley with the thin grey ribbon of the Honister Road below, the bulk of Fleetwith Pike opposite and the castle-like crags of Haystacks up ahead, I followed the wide path up to Scarth Gap. a short way down the other side is the Black Sail Youth Hostel in a wonderfully wild spot near the head of Ennerdale and over six miles from the road but my way led up to the left - and seemed to coincide with everyone else's.

And looking back downtowards Buttermere from a little further on. Grasmoor in the background

The path from here to Haystacks - despite being busy - is an interesting and occasionally exciting route. The route is never in doubt and winds its way between crags and up little gullies with the occasional easy scramble, to quickly gain the summit plateau. You are up close and personal with some very rough and steep terrain but if the path is stuck to there are no difficulties.

The summit of Haystacks consists of a short rocky ridge raised slightly above the plateau. The picture was taken from the cairn though both ends are of roughly equal height.

From my lunch stop on the top, Green Gable, Great Gable and Kirk Fell across the top of Ennerdale

Considering the relative height of this peak in relation to its neighbors, the summit views are impressive to say the least. Great Gable and Pillar along with the wild upper reaches of Ennerdale impress the most while High Crag at the end of the High Stile Ridge appears of vast proportions across Scarth Gap. Despite the picnicking families I secured a comfortable rock just below the cairn which was a great spot for lunch.

Ascent 500m/1640ft  >>> Descent 500m/1640ft >>> How far? 10.4km/6.5 miles

Distance is from Buttermere Youth Hostel

Pete Buckley October 2013

Walking in the Lake District - a Return to Scafell Pike

One Spring day thirty something years ago, two boys set out with their fathers to climb England's highest mountain. Myself, Dad, Cousin Brian and Uncle Gordon headed up the Sty Head track from Wasdale before following the trail passing beside Sprinkling Tarn beneath the gaunt and sombre crags of Great End. All were going well and the intrepid party were confident of success when as happens all too often in the
Lakes; the weather had the last say.

So it was that at our high point of just under 2400 feet by the shelter below Esk Hause, in rapidly deteriorating conditions, the decision was made to abandon the quest and bring to a close my first real experience of fellwalking.

Much more recently on an October morning when cloud hung about the high summits, just two of the original party set off once again from Wasdale to complete the route we had started years earlier. This time I acted as guide having climbed the Pike many times while Brian made the trip in memory of his dad - my Uncle Gordon - who sadly is no longer with us.
 

The weather was still fairly clear as we set off on the Sty Head path from Wasdale below the peak of Great Gable

As we reached the top of the pass Styhead Tarn comes into view. the path down that side goes to Seathwaite in Borrowdale though our route lay up to the right

Brian on the path above Styhead Pass as we approached Sprinkling Tarn.This trail goes to Langdale... eventually.  Great Gable is the mountain behind.

At almost 2000 feet Sprinkling Tarn is the higher of the two tarns on this route. It has the dubious honor of being the wettest place in England

The upper part of the route to Scafell Pike leads across a rough and  stony landscape between the 3000 foot high subsidiary summits of Ill Crag and Broad Crag

At last the top! Looking out over Morecambe Bay from the highest mountain in England

And so we had climbed the mountain by the route we had set out on the first time around - the easiest way though not the shortest - by Esk Hause. Our return was by the Corridor Route which is a fine path and links Styhead Pass with Lingmell Col below and to the North of the summit.The paths are easy but rough in places and we were surprised at the number of people still going up at this late hour and as it turned out, our  own adventure was not yet over. 

Descending the corridor route just beyond the deep chasm of Piers Ghyll. we became aware of people clearly in some distress. They turned out to be a father and son team who on attempting to descend the slopes down to the Left had got into difficulty. They were able luckily  to rejoin us when they spotted where we were on the right path.

For those who know this route we were just below the short rocky step that you scramble down when climbing from Sty Head and the way was not so obvious in descent where the step has to be climbed. It was marked with a cairn but in the fading light and worsening weather (that's why there's no more photos) the two had missed it. The step could appear daunting from below but there is an easy path ten or fifteen feet above!

Brian led the way and I followed the man and boy - who was a similar age to the two boys at the start of this story - up the rocks to the easy path above where they were back on safe ground. At least our return to Scafell Pike had done some good. This route is a safe corridor through a maze of crags and deep gullies so it is always best to stick to the main path unless you know it really well!

Pete Buckley June 2013

Start and finish at The Green, Wasdale Head  >>> How Far? 14.5km/9 miles >>> Total Ascent? 3200ft/975m >>> Highpoint Scafell Pike 3210ft/978m

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Blencathra Without the Crowds

The Glenderamackin Valley is frequented by many times more sheep than walkers yet it provides not only a varied and interesting way into the heart of the Caldbeck Fells but also a quiet and equally varied route to the summit of Blencathra. Having been thwarted a couple of weeks before by weather that suggested building an ark might be a good idea, I set out again on a morning when yes - it was raining once again.

A wide path leaves Mungrisdale in a westerly direction then a south westerly one following the fast flowing River Glenderamackin whose level was noticeably lower than last time. My route followed the river - ignoring the more obvious paths branching right up the hillside - and after a small footbridge enters the river valley proper. It's good remote country this and you won't see many people. Steep green hills rise from the stony bed of the beck and today mist crowned their tops though the rain was at last easing off.

The path crosses a river descending from the right after about a mile - this had required thought last time to stay dry - but today was just a case of walking across on stepping stones. Another path left to climb the fells on the right, this one going to Bannerdale Crags up the interesting East Ridge - next time - but I kept on following the Glenderamackin towards its source.

The course of the valley turned back around to the right as the path climbed steadily and the popular path to Blencathra from Scales appeared on its opposite side occupied by several parties marching towards their objective. By crossing a wooden bridge just below, this path can be joined if so desired. If the weather is as bad as it was the last time I was here and the aim is a shorter walk then climbing to the ridge opposite and turning left will take you back along Souther Fell which is a fine route and leads back to Mungrisedale as a ridge walk to contrast with the valley trek to this point.

Now heading more to the North West, the path continues up towards the jagged outline of Foule Crag and Sharp Edge into wilder terrain to emerge after a short climb at the Glenderamackin Col and the wide open spaces of the Caldbeck Fells. Turning left, a steeper ascent up a windblown ridge brought me easily up to the interesting peak of Foule Crag just as an icy wind blew away the mists to gradually reveal the spectacular far reaching views Blencathra is known for. A short walk across a cold grassy col brought me to the fell's highest summit known as Halls Fell Top (868m/2847ft) where the mountain's fascinating ridge network was laid out below.

Return was by the same route though in the interests of peak bagging - I am finishing off the Wainwrights List - I diverted to the fell known to those who have heard of it at all as Mungrisdale Common. The name does not inspire an ascent and if Wainwright had not included it in his guidebooks then no-one would ever go there but the faint path over the breezy tussock country was a pleasant walk - if a little damp in places - and was worth the detour. In fact on a summers' day when the crowds and all their dogs are trooping up Blencathra this lonely corner of the Caldbeck Fells would be a good place to have one's lunch. If you're tempted, head north from the vicinity of a stone shelter by a small subsidiary peak between Foule Crag and Glenderamackin Col.

A curious thing about the "ascent" of Mungrisdale Common - altitude 633m/2077ft - is that while with most hills or mountains you walk or climb up to the top, here you walk down to the cairn! It's about a mile each way.

From the col you can easily visit Bowscale Fell and Bannerdale Crags - two other Wainwrights - returning by one of the paths we passed earlier to Mungrisdale but today time was getting on so I didn't. The walk in total is 15km or just over 9 miles return to Blencathra or with my diversion today it's 11 miles exactly.

Pete Buckley October 2011

The view down from the summit is of the ridge known as Narrow Edge - here's an account of the ascent - it's easier than it looks!

The Empty Hills - A Walk from Birker Fell to Green Crag

In the south western corner of the Lake District between Eskdale and the valley of the Duddon there lies a relatively unvisited part of the National Park. It is a remote region of rough tussock country, gnarled crags and scattered tarns and when the mist is down on the fells - which it frequently is - feels as far from civilisation as anywhere in the world.

You won't see many walkers here - in fact on this hike to Green Crag I saw nobody at all - and if Wainwright had not listed this fell in his classic guidebooks to Lakeland then it is doubtful anyone would ever ascend it. That's a shame because despite its lowly altitude of 1602 feet, it is a fine rocky summit with some wonderful views across a landscape that is little touched by our destructive activities.

My route began from the Birker Fell Road which links Ulpha in the Duddon Valley with Eskdale. The best place to leave the road is just past the cattle grid that leads to open fellside (direction Eskdale) and the line to take is to initially follow the wall that runs uphill approximately in a north easterly direction. There is a faint path that fades in and out of existence but the aim is to keep to the higher ground which is less boggy than lower down. I say less boggy meaning that it is still boggy but not so mush as  a direct route would be.

Where the wall goes its separate way to the right we keep to the highest ground on a wide grassy ridge. Again the path is sometimes in evidence - sometimes not - and was probably made by sheep in any case. The first summit reached is Great Worm Crag which today I bypassed on the right having been before, where Green Crag comes into view ahead seen in the picture on the right.

It looks a long way off but is actually less than 1 mile though anyone making a beeline for it across easy looking grassy slopes will get wet. Drier ground is found by first heading approximately ENE to White How then north to Green Crag. The dampness is easily forgotten with the views back to the Duddon Estuary and into the lonely country ahead where Scafell and Scafell Pike rise beyond Green Crag's rocky looking peaks.

From White How a pleasant grassy promenade takes the few walkers who come here around the back of green Crag to where a path climbs to the left finishing with an easy little scramble to finish at the summit. Arriving here is almost unexpected as it looked a lot further from Great Worm Crag and there is time to relax and enjoy the views of the Scafell Range to the North which today I had to myself.

The walk from the road is 2.5 miles so it's about five miles return - a good way to spend an afternoon.

Pete Buckley August 2011

Fairfield by Deepdale and Cofa Pike

The best known and most popular walking route on Fairfield is almost certainly the Fairfield Horseshoe from Ambleside or Rydal but while this is undoubtedly a great day out, it doesn't venture onto the mountain's unseen northern face - it's finest asset.

Here dark and forbidding crags stand guard over the lonely fastnesses of Deepdale and shattered screes replace the sheep cropped turf of the Ambleside slopes. This is a place that has changed little in a thousand years - the home of the raven and the buzzard. It is places like these that keep us coming back.

This walk begins at Bridgend between Patterdale and Brothers Water and covers 14km with some rough steep sections around the head of Deepdale and Cofa Pike. On a weekend when the car park near Brothers water was almost full I saw only one other walker for the length of Deepdale which shows it is not frequented by the crowds.

Leaving the car park I walked north along the road as far as Bridgend where I turned left down a lane marked with a footpath sign. Where this bends right you turn left again through a gate before the row of houses to follow a track firstly past Deepdale Hall Farm then - some distance on - Wall End. Here the path crossed a stream and headed into the unpopulated valley ahead.

As the path rounded an intervening slope the rugged northern side of Fairfield comes into view ahead. Deepdale Hause is the col on the right with Cofa Pike above. The summit was still in cloud.
 
The path follows the right bank (when ascending) of the river through a level marshy area before beginning a steeper ascent through a region that looks like a geography lesson about the Ice Age; both U-shaped and hanging valleys, moraines, boulders (known as erratics) left by retreating ice - Deepdale has it all but we don't have to try and remember how these things got here - just enjoy the view!

Geography field trip over, the route ascends steeply to one of those so called hanging valleys - a lonely
dale high above the lower one enclosed by the crags of Fairfield with the steep slopes of St Sunday Crag
rising to the right. The way out of here becomes apparent as we reach its head along a rough path.

The path fades as it begins to climb again where there are a choice of ways to gain the ridge above. The obvious gully on the left leading up just to the right of Cofa Pike looks steep - probably because it is - and my route lay further to the right nearer the col linking to St Sunday Crag where there were vestiges of a path and the crags could be avoided. I don't think Deepdale Hause has been used as a pass for many years and finding the way up to it would be dangerous in mist.

The last part up to the ridge is the steepest part of the route and a shelving path is met leading to the ridge itself without difficulty. Cofa Pike looks daunting from here but it's a fun walk up a path. The scrambles are on the crest and can be avoided if so desired.

The ridge gained we meet the broad path from St Sunday Crag - that's my favorate route up Fairfield - and are greeted with this view of Dollywaggon Pike, Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn across Grisedale. We turn left at this point but if you didn't know that then you need to think about getting the map out!

The path ascends steeply over Cofa Pike - follow the crest at the top if you like scrambling - and on up to Fairfield's flat summit at 2863 feet or 873m - the route's high point.

The next photo shows the view from just past the summit of Fairfield, looking towards the start point near Brothers Water, itself hidden behind the intervening ridge which is known as Hartsop Above How. This ridge also offers a fine route down to finish at the road half a mile beyond the start point.

To descend this way follow the path roughly ENE down from the next summit of Hart Crag. Note: The start of this way down descends between crags and is easy as long as the path is not lost so the advice of many good stories - do not leave the path - holds true here! Dangerous in mist - do not try! The descent along Hartsop above How is easy and enjoyable all the way down with stunning views of Dovedale. This way is probably better than the one I did today but I had already done it previously.

For today's route follow the path up and over Hart Crag which rises ahead. There is a wide and usually popular path following the Fairfield Horseshoe - and descend the rough slopes on the far side to a grassy plateau between Hart Crag and Dove Crag. Near the low point between the 2 fells saunter off to the left towards where a prominent cairn is seen in the distance. People will doubtless think you are going the wrong way but beyond the cairn a faint path is found which becomes more pronounced lower down.

The start of this path is not obvious but it is there and it leads to a hidden grassy hollow containing a large boulder which is a wonderful and quiet spot to stop for a while - if the sun is out that is - and the view of Dovedale from its eastern edge is sublime.
The hollow lies above steep ground and the path heads down a gully below the rock wall of Dove Crag on the right. Stone steps have been placed to facilitate progress as this route used to be excessively loose and rough. The following picture shows the view down the gully twards the wild upper part of Dovedale. Once down the steep section a choice of ways is found - to cross the river or not?

Both lead to the farm of Hartsop Hall and on to Brothers Water but the left hand path is more direct following the slope down while the other - across the river - descends into woodland and through Dovedale itself. Both are okay but I guess if time is no issue the valley one is more interesting - if you're in a hurry keep left. The valley path initially fords the stream but if this looks dodgy as after heavy rain which is frequent here then there is a footbridge a little further on.

Pete Buckley May 2011