The Empty Hills - A Walk from Birker Fell to Green Crag

In the south western corner of the Lake District between Eskdale and the valley of the Duddon there lies a relatively unvisited part of the National Park. It is a remote region of rough tussock country, gnarled crags and scattered tarns and when the mist is down on the fells - which it frequently is - feels as far from civilisation as anywhere in the world.

You won't see many walkers here - in fact on this hike to Green Crag I saw nobody at all - and if Wainwright had not listed this fell in his classic guidebooks to Lakeland then it is doubtful anyone would ever ascend it. That's a shame because despite its lowly altitude of 1602 feet, it is a fine rocky summit with some wonderful views across a landscape that is little touched by our destructive activities.

My route began from the Birker Fell Road which links Ulpha in the Duddon Valley with Eskdale. The best place to leave the road is just past the cattle grid that leads to open fellside (direction Eskdale) and the line to take is to initially follow the wall that runs uphill approximately in a north easterly direction. There is a faint path that fades in and out of existence but the aim is to keep to the higher ground which is less boggy than lower down. I say less boggy meaning that it is still boggy but not so mush as  a direct route would be.

Where the wall goes its separate way to the right we keep to the highest ground on a wide grassy ridge. Again the path is sometimes in evidence - sometimes not - and was probably made by sheep in any case. The first summit reached is Great Worm Crag which today I bypassed on the right having been before, where Green Crag comes into view ahead seen in the picture on the right.

It looks a long way off but is actually less than 1 mile though anyone making a beeline for it across easy looking grassy slopes will get wet. Drier ground is found by first heading approximately ENE to White How then north to Green Crag. The dampness is easily forgotten with the views back to the Duddon Estuary and into the lonely country ahead where Scafell and Scafell Pike rise beyond Green Crag's rocky looking peaks.

From White How a pleasant grassy promenade takes the few walkers who come here around the back of green Crag to where a path climbs to the left finishing with an easy little scramble to finish at the summit. Arriving here is almost unexpected as it looked a lot further from Great Worm Crag and there is time to relax and enjoy the views of the Scafell Range to the North which today I had to myself.

The walk from the road is 2.5 miles so it's about five miles return - a good way to spend an afternoon.

Pete Buckley August 2011