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Sunday 10 September 2017

Helvellyn from Wythburn by the Old Shepherds' Path


I did this route to Helvellyn - which is a little known variant of one of the popular routes - last year and it was published at the time on my other blog; but as these pages are about walking in Lakeland and it was such a good day out, I felt it ought to be on here too. Well now it is. One thing to contemplate... was The Old Shepherd's Path so named because it is an old route used by shepherds or was the trail originally blazed by an elderly shepherd? Something to think about whilst climbing the last steep slope near the end...
thirlmere from Wythburn
Thirlmere from the lower part of the route
The path from Wythburn Church to the summit of Helvellyn is an old and well trodden route though it is perhaps now not as popular as the wide path via Grisedale Tarn or the more exciting but over publicised Striding Edge. In terms of variety and the beauty of the views though, this route to England’s third highest mountain is hard to beat especially if an old and little used shepherds’ track is followed. It is detailed in the Wainwright Guide The Eastern Fells though few people used it then and probably even fewer do today.
Beginning at Wythburn Church the path leads steeply up between tall pine trees with the
thirlmere from the helvellyn path
Higher up Skiddaw comes into view
river on the left; to cross a forestry road before leaving the sheltering trees for the open fell side above. The way ahead is never in doubt and soon enters a steep sided valley where the gradient of the path eases before climbing steeply up the right slope below crags. Soon the easy grassy slopes above are reached and the path again turns back around to the left with spectacular views northward along Thirlmere to where the prominent peak of Skiddaw stands in apparent isolation.
Soon after the steep drop offs to the left are passed a faint path leaves the main one in this direction and soon crosses a stream descending the western slopes of the mountain. The walker following this soon has the mountains to his or her self and is led roughly northward across easy slopes of tussock grass. The path fades in and out and it is apparent that it is
Back from the Old Shepherds Path towards Coniston
rarely used, soon passing a large rock that makes a comfortable rest stop with views towards the hills around Wasdale and Buttermere away to the west. This is a tranquil place on a warm day and it is worth lingering before rejoining the rest of humanity on the summit.
The way up is found by continuing around the slope below small crags and once past them heading up the slope to the right over steep but not difficult terrain. As the path is faint and practically non existent in the latter stages, this route can not be recommended in poor weather but on a day of good visibility it is a joy to follow. Presently the main path is reached and followed left
reaching the summit of helvellyn
Walkers at the summit of Helvellyn

up to the summit at 3116ft or 950m above sea level – the third highest point in the Lake District. After enjoying the views I returned by the normal path – remember to branch down to the right at the fork before Nethermost Pike or you will end up at Grisedale Tarn and wonder why you never passed it on the way up. In total it’s a climb of 2550ft or just under 800m and a distance of just over 5miles/8km in total.

And here are a few more views from the summit...

catstycam ullswater and red tarn from helvellyn summit
East from the summit - Catstycam, Ullswater and Red Tarn
North along the ridge with Skiddaw in the distance

striding edge and red tarn
The Striding Edge route ascending from the other side
wythburn church cumbria lake district
And back to the start with a visit to Wythburn Church

Thursday 7 September 2017

Three Wainwrights from Hartsop - Rest Dodd, Brock Crags and the Nab

Today was one of those days which began as a mission to bag a couple more of the few remaining unclimbed Wainwrights on my personal list and ended up a really good day out in the hills - and that
lake district walks - brock crags
Looking back from below the pumping station building
despite technical issues involving camera batteries. In the Lakes, every second walker I talk to seems to be doing the Wainwrights just as in Scotland the obsession is with the Munros. The one advantage of this gratuitous peak bagging though is that it does take you away from the usual routes and into new places often far from the beaten path. After all there's only so many times you can climb Scafell Pike or Ben Nevis!

The route - which was made up as I went along - began as a walk up the track from Hartsop just off the Kirkstone road near Patterdale. Staying on the north side of the beck I followed said track past the turn off for Hayes Water (this was to be the return route) and on as far as the old pumping station building. Just before the building another grassy track doubles back across the hillside giving some great views of the
Brothers Water area and Fairfield across the valley. When a large boulder is reached after the wall, a fainter path leads back again and up the steep slopes. This way - with some meandering near the top - brought me to Brock Crags the first summit of the day.

For its lowly altitude Brock Crags is a fine viewpoint and well worth the climb which while short, is steep in its latter stages. From here I followed a path that led back to the main trail to High Street that crosses the fells here. A short distance from the path, Satura Crag is worth a visit for the views it affords in all directions - especially to Boardale and to Angletarn Pikes just beyond Angle Tarn. For peak baggers who haven't already been to the Pikes, it's a short distance left or west on the main path but my route lay the other way over Rest Dodd which would be my high point of the day at 2278ft or 696m.
Brothers Water and Fairfield

From the summit of Rest Dodd I headed steeply down in a northerly direction along a path that led to the grassy plateau between Rest Dodd and the Nab. Numerous peat hags are in evidence here though keeping right avoids the worst of the bogginess and if the path is followed you should stay dry. Halfway to the Nab was a large isolated boulder - the only rock for some distance around - that I termed a "rest rock" as it was a good place for lunch. The location was extremely peaceful on what was a fine day and curious in the fact that from here one can not see the valleys or indeed any sign of human life. Only the surrounding fells are visible seeming to rise like islands in a sea of grass. Rest Dodd in particular is well seen from here.

So it was on to the summit of the Nab and another tick in the Far Eastern Fells book and a fine view
lakeland tarns
Angle Tarn, Angletarn Pikes and Place Fell from Satura Crag
of Martindale too. The Nab is something of a sea of grass too but a pleasant enough place. Even in the summer holidays you'll likely have it to yourself. It's situated in the Martindale Deer Forest and there's apparently a good chance of spotting them though I wasn't lucky in this respect today.

Returning from the Nab and back over the wide grassy section which lasts about a mile, a wall is reached just after the ascent of Rest Dodd is started. Instead of climbing all the way up to the top again I passed the wall and followed it to the right across the fell side which saved a steep climb. A faint path is presently joined that emerges on the north west side of Rest Dodd, rejoining the path I'd earlier taken to that summit.

Onward and downward then - a return over Brock crags and the way I came would be okay but to
walking in lakeland - the far eastern fells
The Nab from Rest Dodd - Ullswater far distant
vary the route I headed back to the main High Street path and turning left, followed it approximately south east towards the bulk of the Knott, leaving it to descend to Hayeswater. Incidentally; for those who may be unfamiliar with Lakeland, High Street is the highest point of the area known as the Far Eastern Fells and is named after the Roman Road that follws the ridge. There are no shops up here!

From the lonely Hayeswater reservoir in its steep sided valley, a wide track was followed all the way back to my start point at Hartsop. In all a walk - as done - of 12km or about 8 miles visiting three summits; Brock Crags (561m), Rest Dodd (696m) and the Nab (576m) though it would not add to much to also visit Angletarn Pikes and even the Knott if so desired.

I have recently started making some film clips of these outings but as my spare batteries had even
Martindale seen from the Nab
less enthusiasm than the old ones it didn't happen today. I did manage these few photos though. The film clips will appear on my new channel which will be called Pete's Tales from the Hills.













walks in lakeland - far eastern fells
The "rest rock" in a sea of grass with Rest Dodd beyond



Thursday 20 April 2017

Wasdale Head to Scafell in Pictures

The number of people hiking up Scafell Pike every summer would probably fill a football stadium but the neighboring peak of Scafell - though an equally fine expedition when the rain stays away - is far less frequented. England's second highest peak is definitely the abode of the fellwalker rather than that of the tourist. The route initially follows the same path (from Wasdale Head village green or the National Trust campsite - the paths converge shortly after where the first two photos were taken - initially following the stream of Lingmell Gill and then up the relentless slopes to Hollowstones - the wild and rock cwm below the peaks. The way to the Pike - and the crowds - branch off to the left while our route continues up over rough steep terrain to Mickledore the obvious col between Scafell and Scafell Pike at about 2650ft.. 

Head down the far side for a short way towards Upper Eskdale, keeping to the right which avoids a boulder field, until the gully is spotted leading up through broken crags to the right. Going up here can be wet after rain as it doubles as a stream bed but it's not boggy and we stayed dry today!  The path is clear up past Foxes Tarn - which turns out to be a small pool with a rock in the middle - and on up to the summit of Scafell which at 3162ft is the second highest point in England.

If anything this route is harder than the slightly higher Pike due to the roughness of the terrain and the descent from Mickledore. The rock scenery up to the ridge is sublime and the ascent of the Foxes Tarn gully exciting but not difficult or exposed. We descended west from the summit via the Green How route which is without difficulty unless you follow our route down the steep scree back to Lingmell Gill - better to continue on down to Brackenclose and the campsite. 

Total distance 10km/6.25 miles >>> Ascent 3100ft/950m >>> Descent 3100ft/950m

The Lord's Rake route was subject to rock falls some years back and has a large boulder to be negotiated. It's passable but there's always a risk of further rock falls and this route is a straightforward one. Do not be tempted to go up Broad Stand - the direct route from Mickledore unless you're an experienced rock climber - it looks short but it's a climb rather than a walk and without a belay rope a slip would not end well!

wastwater in the lake district
Wastwater and the Screes from early in the walk

wasdale head from path to scafell
Wasdale Head from the same place looking to Pillar and Kirkfell

route to mickledore and scafell
Further up is the area known as Hollow Stones just below Mickledore

mickledore between wasdale and upper eskdale
Mickledore separates Scafell and the Pike looking to Broad Stand

hiking scafell from wasdale head
Looking up the gully towards Foxes Tarn

Looking back down the gully from just before the tarn

summit view from scafell
The summit of Scafell with the Wasdale Fells and Grasmoor far distance

Scafell Crag with Deep Ghyll Butress left and Scafell Pinnacle

The Wasdale Fells looking towards Pillar, Kirkfell and Mosedale

Looking back to Scafell Pike 

The top of Deep Ghyll Butress is a fine vantage point reached by an easy scramble