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Tuesday 18 October 2011

Blencathra Without the Crowds

Blencathra walkThe Glenderamackin Valley is frequented by many times more sheep than walkers yet it provides not only a varied and interesting way into the heart of the Caldbeck Fells but also a quiet and equally varied route to the summit of Blencathra. Having been thwarted a couple of weeks before by weather that suggested building an ark might be a good idea, I set out again on a morning when yes - it was raining once again.

A wide path leaves Mungrisdale in a westerly direction then a south westerly one following the fast flowing River Glenderamackin whose level was noticeably lower than last time. My route followed the river - ignoring the more obvious paths branching right up the hillside - and after a small footbridge enters the river valley proper. It's good remote country this and you won't see many people. Steep green hills rise from the stony bed of the beck and today mist crowned their tops though the rain was at last easing off.

Glenderamackin Lakeland
The path crosses a river descending from the right after about a mile - this had required thought last time to stay dry - but today was just a case of walking across on stepping stones. Another path left to climb the fells on the right, this one going to Bannerdale Crags up the interesting East Ridge - next time - but I kept on following the Glenderamackin towards its source.

The course of the valley turned back around to the right as the path climbed steadily and the popular path to Blencathra from Scales appeared on its opposite side occupied by several parties marching towards their objective. By crossing a wooden bridge just below, this path can be joined if so desired. If the weather is as bad as it was the last time I was here and the aim is a shorter walk then climbing to the ridge opposite and turning left will take you back along Souther Fell which is a fine route and leads back to Mungrisedale as a ridge walk to contrast with the valley trek to this point.

Blencathra view looking eastNow heading more to the North West, the path continues up towards the jagged outline of Foule Crag and Sharp Edge into wilder terrain to emerge after a short climb at the Glenderamackin Col and the wide open spaces of the Caldbeck Fells. Turning left, a steeper ascent up a windblown ridge brought me easily up to the interesting peak of Foule Crag just as an icy wind blew away the mists to gradually reveal the spectacular far reaching views Blencathra is known for. A short walk across a cold grassy col brought me to the fell's highest summit known as Halls Fell Top (868m/2847ft) where the mountain's fascinating ridge network was laid out below.

Derwentwater from BlencathraReturn was by the same route though in the interests of peak bagging - I am finishing off the Wainwrights List - I diverted to the fell known to those who have heard of it at all as Mungrisdale Common. The name does not inspire an ascent and if Wainwright had not included it in his guidebooks then no-one would ever go there but the faint path over the breezy tussock country was a pleasant walk - if a little damp in places - and was worth the detour. In fact on a summers' day when the crowds and all their dogs are trooping up Blencathra this lonely corner of the Caldbeck Fells would be a good place to have one's lunch. If you're tempted, head north from the vicinity of a stone shelter by a small subsidiary peak between Foule Crag and Glenderamackin Col.

A curious thing about the "ascent" of Mungrisdale Common - altitude 633m/2077ft - is that while with most hills or mountains you walk or climb up to the top, here you walk down to the cairn! It's about a mile each way.

From the col you can easily visit Bowscale Fell and Bannerdale Crags - two other Wainwrights - returning by one of the paths we passed earlier to Mungrisdale but today time was getting on so I didn't. The walk in total is 15km or just over 9 miles return to Blencathra or with my diversion today it's 11 miles exactly.

Pete Buckley October 2011

Carrock Fell and Bowscale Fell


Blencathra from Mungrisdale Common

Blencathra from Glenderamackin

Narrow Edge on Blencathra

The view down from the summit is of the ridge known as Narrow Edge - here's an account of the ascent - it's easier than it looks!

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