Hiking in the Lake District - Across England's Highest Peak

Slightly out of breath from the steep climb we stopped by the stream that cascaded down from Great Gable and decided to fill our water bottles with the cold refreshing water.   Since we had crossed the wooden footbridge down below, the level valley path from Wasdale Head past the tiny church of st Olaf and the sheepfolds of Burnthwaite had become a relentless stony climb. It's one I've done many times though but this was different because I was taking my eldest son Josh up England's highest peak Scafell Pike after a camp in the valley and it brought to mind the many times I had followed my own father up these same trails.

Our objective appeared from the mists across the valley in the early morning light as we watched; sporting a few remnants of winter snow above the wild and craggy confines of Sty Head. It was good to have the place to ourselves and we set off again towards the top of the pass which was not far now.

Our first view of Scafell Pike from the path to Styhead Pass

Sty Head is as much a crossroads in the hills as a pass with the path we were on linking Wasdale and Borrowdale, while a good path heads right (roughly south east) towards Langdale. Up to the left is the path to Great Gable from where steep and rough trails lead down towards Ennerdale,

Styhead Tarn occupies an idyllic place in the hills just below the pass of the same name. The fell beyond is Green Gable

Sprinkling Tarn at 2000 ft on the route has the dubious honour of being the rainiest place in England

We followed the right hand path past the idyllic Sty Head Tarn and up below the dark crags of Great End to Sprinkling Tarn at almost 2000 feet. This lonely stretch of water has the dubious honour of being the wettest place in England and though it wasn't raining at the moment the early sun appeared to be having second thoughts. After the tarn where the path forks, the right one is taken for Scafell Pike; the other being the route to Langdale. This section is particularly easy being on constructed trails up moderate gradients heading firstly in a southerly direction to Esk Hause and then curving more to the West around Great End to a high col that offers views back down to Sty Head and a sense that one is getting somewhere.

A false sense of security is given to all unfamiliar with the mountain by this easy section; Scafell Pike is still around a mile away across some of the roughest ground in the Lake District. Up to the left (roughly south west) from the col soon leads to the boulder fields; the marker cairns offer a way that avoids the worst of the boulder hopping but even though I have been here many times Istill had to look carefully for the route. The dip down to Little Narrowcove and the final steep ascent to the Pike was almost welcome after the rocks and soon we stood on the highest ground in England, 3210 feet or 978m above sea level.

Josh had almost made it - this is on the rough section with the summit beyond

At 3210ft or 978m Scafell Pike is the highest mountain in England. The peak visible on the right is Great Gable(2949ft/899m) with Pillar and Kirk Fell on the left

For the route down we followed the well marked path north-westwards towards Lingmell Col which is good for the Corridor Route back to Styhead or the so called "Brown Tongue" route which is the shortest way to Wasdale Head from the summit and a long stony descent followed, passing the turn off on the right for the Corridor. The path then curved around and down to the left onto easier grassy terrain as we had opted for Brown Tongue which algthough a little tedious in ascent offers a quick way down and meant we would have traversed the peak and come down the other side. Once on the constructed pathway which consists of many hundreds of stone steps the way is obvious - the only choices being at the bottom of the steep slope after crossing the river where the main path carries on (to the National Trust campsite) and a path heads off across the slope to the right. This goes to the Green and Wasdale Head Hotel and was our way back to the car.

From just below the summit we looked back down to Styhead Tarn that we passed earlier. Great End is on the right

Looking back up to Mickledore the ridge that separates Scafell and Scafell Pike from the region known as Hollow Stones on the route down

A welcome sight at the end of the walk though the photo was actually taken from the Green as we set off

The route as we walked it is a circular one of 12.5km or about eight miles and just over 3000ft (914m) of ascent and descent that effectively makes a traverse or crossing of Scafell Pike. The terrain is excessively rough and stony for most of the way and will seem further than 8 miles but it's worth the effort on a day with a view and is within the capabilities of most reasonably fit people. Wasdale Head has a couple of campites and B&b's as well as the hotel which is a welcome sight after the walk. Allow a good 5-6 hrs with stops.

Pete Buckley April 2014

Walking in the Lake District - Grasmere, Easedale and Tarn Crag

The secluded valley of Easedale just a stone's throw from bustling Grasmere is a popular destination for tourists who walk up into the hills from the village to Easedale Tarn; yet until very recently it was the only valley of any size in the Lake District that I'd never visited.

So taking advantage of a weather window - well it had stopped raining - I set out from Grasmere's Butharlyp How Youth Hostel to go take a look at Easedale Tarn and ascend Tarn Crag which is an interesting looking sub-2000 Wainwright that rises directly above it.

Leaving Gramere the path heads through the lower part of Easedale with Tarn crag seen ahead

The path from Grasmere lies firstly along a lane conveniently named Easedale Road that heads past the Youth hostel and on towards the base of Helm Crag (aka the Lion and the Lamb). The path is signed off to the left through a gate and over the beck after perhaps half a mile where the route to Helm Crag carries straight on. Just a short way through some woods and the view ahead is of the Central Fells at the head of Easedale.

At a stone bridge on the right there is the choice of crossing the beck though I kept straight on - both trails lead to Easedale Tarn and fording the river is easy at the outflow of the tarn.

The path makes a steady ascent from the flat valley floor, following the beck which is called Sour Milk Gill,  past an impressive waterfall and on up to Easedale Tarn. The tarn lies in a rugged hollow in the fells that contrasts finely with the pastoral nature of the lower part of the valley.

The wild looking surroundings of Easedale Tarn contrasts with the valley below

 This is a worthwhile destination for a short and easy day out but I crossed the outflow  at some stepping stones and journeyed a little way around its right hand side picking up a faint path heading up the steep slopes above the water. The path became clearer higher up and as the gradient eased; emerged on the wide grassy ridge above. I now headed up to the left with the peak of Tarn Crag rising ahead.

A faint path leads up the wide grassy ridge towards Tarn Crag whose summit is the obvious peak straight ahead. The route is easier and shorter than it looks in the picture!

Tarn Crag; despite its modest altitude is of an imposing appearance but the easy path heads up between its two peaks - the highest being the pointed one on the right - and doubles back to gain the cairn which is perched on a fine eyrie overlooking Easedale and the Grasmere valley. Here the wind blew harder and the mist had now come in so I ventured back below the crest to eat my lunch on a comfortable rock just below the ridge separating the two summits.

Looking towards Fairfield and Helvellyn from my lunch place just below the top of Tarn Crag.

In clearer weather the views would impress from here but today everything above about 1800 ft was obscured though Easedale Tarn and the Grasmere valley made a pleasant backdrop to my downhill walk before the rain once more made its return. At least it had the decency to wait until I was back at Grasmere.

The lonely situation of Easedale Tarn is clear from the walk back down Tarn Crag

I liked this spot so finished my lunch here - it was a short way around the tarn looking towards the outflow where the paths emerge

The walk in total is 6 miles return (four if you only go as far as the tarn) and reaches a maximum height of 1801 feet. The tarn lies at just under 1000 feet. Grasmere has a profusion of hotels, guest houses and B&B's though I stayed at the youth hostel which is a five minute walk from the village.

Pete Buckley March 2014